25 April 2011

Easter Sunday


Roman Sarcophagus


Inside the Mezquita


Nuns waiting for the procession


Disgusting chocolate churros

It rained constantly in Sevilla. On our second day there we tried to find a supermarket so we could eat more cheaply, but no luck. The sky cleared at around 5 pm so we went out again hoping to see one of the processions at the Plz Nueva. We waited around again for more than an hour but then it started to rain again, so we walked the streets in the centre until about 10 and then back to the hostel. We did try the chocolate with churros to dip. Very yum but once is enough.
The Oasis Hostel is in an Andalucian house which is a bit like Moroccan houses with an open space in the middle opening to the terrace on the top. There is always a glass roof over the central space which lets in light but also can be opened to let in air when it isn't raining. Stairs are steep.
On Saturday, we went to catch a taxi to the train station and found them lined up facing the way they would have to drive. When we went along the line and spoke to the first taxi driver, he rattled off something and pointed to the other end of the queue. I said "no entiendo" so he got out and said exactly the same thing which I gathered meant the taxi at the back of the queue was actually at the front of the queue. I look at all taxi queues differently now. Taxi fare 5EU or $7. Train fare 34EU or $45 for both.
Once in Cordoba we were once again caught in the holiday trap but eventually found a supermarket. There are bars up and down all the streets but no supermarkets. And the bars are always chockers. Our room has a kitchen so we have been able to have breakfast and at least one other meal there. Saturday arvo we walked around the area where the historic buildings are but then it started to rain again. Sunday morning we walked up to the Plaza Santa Marina hoping to see a procession again. This time 3 bands turned up and the men who were to carry the huge religious object had their pants rolled up and had a strange cloth over their heads with a rolled up bit at the bottom which must have helped protect their heads and necks. The TV cameras were ready and waiting. One band marched in to the plaza playing LOUDLY then hung around for a while looking progressively more dishevelled. Then a second band played a piece in another side street. At this point in time even though the sun was shining brightly, it became obvious that the parade had been cancelled. Even the nuns from the convent near the church, went down off the roof of their convent. A third band struck up and played a long piece and then we all melted away.
From there we went to see the Alcazar which was a Roman fortress and then a residence of Christian kings. It was from here that Christopher Columbus planned his trip to discover America. It was used during the Inquisition and also used as a jail. It has been restored recently perhaps losing a bit of the sense of its age. Cordoba is an applicant for the Europe Culture City to be judged in 2016 so they are busy cleaning up much of the ancient buildings. Inside the Alcazar a beautiful marble Roman Sarcophagus from 111 BC has been put on display. We then walked to the Synagogue in the Jewish quarter which was built in the early 14th century and still in use until 1492 when the Jews were expelled from Spain. It is decorated with stylised plant motifs in stucco. We then took the big step and went into a bar deciding to order a beer and hope we would be given enough tapas to cut our hunger pangs. We stood for ages with our beers in front of us while throngs kept coming in and getting served. Decided to go and sit down to order a lunch to share. Still don't know how we would have paid for the beers if we'd stayed at the bar. Maybe we'll find out tonight as we plan to go to a Flamenco bar at 10.30.
Queued up for tickets to the Mezquita/Cathedral and found ourselves with thousands of others enthralled by the sheer size of this place. I had very fond memories of this building from my last visit. The mosque was started in 785 on the site of a Visigoth basilica and was extended over the next two centuries. When the Christians defeated the Moors around 1236 it was used as a church and then in the 16th century a cathedral was built right in its centre. The building is 24 000 m squared. Who are the Visigoths?????
When we were leaving the building another band marched in and the crowd got excited once again. We thought we just might be lucky to see one procession but it was not to be. It is really strange. All the participants roll up and the crowd waits and then the participants start to drift away. No-one comes out and makes an announcement so the crowd keeps up the air of expectation and hangs around in hopeful uncertainty.
We walked over the Roman bridge and then did a loop back to the room - totally knackered - this tourist lark is exhausting.
One more day here. Have to work out how to get to Granada and maybe visit some of the gardens tomorrow.

Stayed at Hotel Maestre for AU $156.60 for 3 nights.

1 Comments:

At 9:18 pm, Blogger gadfly06 said...

Love the photos - especially the nuns. Pity about the processions not happening.

 

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