0605 Avila
From Madrid to Avila we passed through high country and didn't see very much cropping at all. Then as we approached Avila for many kilometres we moved through pastoral country with huge herds of cattle, mostly the black variety similar to those used in bull fights. It turned out that beef is the specialty of Avila. Yesterday arvo when we arrived we walked around the outside of the wall on a beautiful sunny afternoon. Today, we awoke to rain again - I knew I repaired my cheap Chinese umbrella for a reason.
We had a look at the Cathedral which was begun in the 11th century but was completed in the 16th century. It was the first cathedral built in Spain with Gothic design. It is obvious where the old and the newer church join as different stone was used. The town wall was built in the 12th century and is 2.5 kms long surrounding the old town. The new town is built outside the walls. There are 88 towers on the wall and 9 gates. It is built in sandstone. The apse of the cathedral forms part of the battlement walls. I'm really pleased I returned to this little walled town but I didn't see it sitting on the hill from the road across the tableland like we did in 1971 because we came in by train to the new town. I was so excited by the vision of the walled town back then but now there seems to be a new housing estate to obstruct that wonderful view. Storks guard the Cathedral spires - if only they could talk and pass on the stories of the generations watching over the plains. For 300 years, Avila was on the front line of the battles between the Moors and the Christians and changed hands many times.
We had a Menu of the Day lunch for 10 EUR each (about $13) including 3 courses, bread, wine and water and made sure we tasted the local beef: very tender, I must say. Every meat meal seems to come with only French Fries. We really miss vegetables and we have trouble eating the quantity of food served up. We have been in the habit since Morocco of sharing one Menu of the Day but here in Avila they don't seem to like that idea. Spaniards eat at about 9 pm as well which beats Morocco's 12 pm, but is way too late for us. We try to eat something small at night.
While I'm on the topic of food, we have discovered Pastelerias here in Avila. We have up to now walked past them. Tonight for dinner we had two pastries and we are going to eat fruit in our hostel room. In Seville we gave in a couple of times and went into a Heladeria where the icecream is piled high. We'll come home with sweet tooth(s).
This evening we walked around on top of the wall (as much as is open to the public). This gave us our mandatory "1000" steps a day. The temperature dropped to 14 deg celsius and stayed there all day.
We located the Estacion de autobus and bought our tickets to Segovia leaving
tomorrow.
Stayed at Hostal Restaurante Puerta del Alcazar for AU $90 for 2 nights.

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